Category Archives: Trip Reports

Best Views in Florence – Is there room for another view?

August 3, 2014 Point A

As much as we’ve enjoyed our last couple of stays at the Hotel Brunelleschi, I have to admit that we’ve never had a classic “room with a view” in Florence. However, this never really bothered us since Firenze is a city that’s meant to be experienced by walking the streets and not by gazing out of a hotel room window.

A logical first place to catch the “view” that we were seeking was the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore. Just around the corner from the hotel, this Florence Cathedral is popularly known simply as Il Duomo. Of course, once we arrived at the church, we were confronted with lines that seemed to go on forever. I’m sure the views from the top of the Duomo’s iconic dome would be great. However, we also didn’t want to spend half our day waiting in line.

As an alternative, we decided to head out across the Arno river to the Piazzale Michelangelo. This square features a bronze copy of its namesake sculptor’s statue of David. However, the true draw of this popular vantage point is the panoramic view of Florence.

Of course, a lot of other travelers will have the same idea, so be prepared for a bit of a carnival-like (at times honky-tonk) environment with numerous food, drink and souvenir vendors scattered about. In addition, make sure you bring a hat and some sunscreen since there aren’t a lot of shaded areas that offer relief from the sun.

Nevertheless, the atmosphere of the area is festive and offers some great people-watching opportunities. One place to take a break is VIP’s Bar which offers outdoor seating and a prime location for taking in the views.

This venue is best suited for a cold drink, ice cream or some coffee. Although I wouldn’t build my evening meal round the VIP Bar, I would try to time a pre-dinner visit so that you could enjoy the sunset over Florence.

You also discover views in some unexpected places. For example, last summer we attended a music concert at theOrsanmichele. This church was used as a chapel by the city’s powerful trade and craft guilds during the 13^th and 14^th centuries. The concert took place in the museum located on the church’s upper floors. During the intermission, we wandered about and enjoyed some wonderful nighttime views of Il Duomo.

Finally, after soaking in the atmosphere of the lively Piazza della Signoria, another copy of the Michelangelo’s David (the original was moved to the Accademia Gallery in 1873) caught our attention and drew us towards the entrance of the Palazzo Vecchio.

This large fortress-turned-palace served as the city’s town hall and housed the Signoria, or ruling body, of the Republic of Florence during the Medieval and Renaissance periods.

We opted for an entrance ticket that provided us admission to both the palace museum as well as the building’s Tower. As we made our way up the structure’s stone steps, we caught some peaks of the view outside.

At the top, we were rewarded for our climb with a postcard-worthy view of Il Duomo.

Before, my vertigo kicked in, my Partner F and I took a moment to wave at our fellow travelers atop the Duomo’s dome. Although those folks probably had to wait significantly longer in line than we did, I’ll have to admit that we were ALL pretty fortunate to be able to enjoy the views of the beautiful city laid out at our feet.

How about you? Do you have any suggestions for places to take in the view while in Florence?

Food, Italy, Trip Reports

Five Firenze Fooderies – Places to Eat in Florence, Italy

July 19, 2014 Point A

Okay, I know my use of alliteration for the title of this blog post really massacred the English language. But hey, I hope I caught your attention! After a heavy day in search of “Rooms with a View” and partaking of Florence’s various cultural offerings, a guy’s gotta eat. So, if you’re famished in Florence and foraging for food (sorry, I just can’t stop), here are a few ideas:

Trattoria Le Antiche Carrozze

Address: Piazza di Santa Trinita – 50123 Florence
Tel: +39 055 2658156
Website: http://www.leantichecarrozze.it/en-index.php
TripAdvisor Reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d812542-Reviews-Le_Antiche_Carrozze-Florence_Tuscany.html

This centrally located trattoria has been around since 1875. During our last two trips to Florence our daily activities seemed to regularly bring us within close proximity to this restaurant. We’ve eaten here several times and this place has become a favorite “go to” option for a reasonably priced, no-fuss, quality meal. The menu offers a wide variety of classic Italian, Tuscan and pizza options in a traditional and rustic setting.

After you’re done carbo-loading, you can stroll across the Piazza to the nearby Salvatore Ferragamo Shoe Museum where you can burn off some calories by wandering through the displays that take you on a journey through the history of footwear.

Alternatively, you can take a quick air-conditioned Disco Nap while watching the surreal, Tim Burton-esque animated short film White Shoe which was inspired by the life and work of the famous designer.

Ristorante Il Latini

Address: via dei Palchetti 6/r (Palazzo Rucellai) – 50123 Florence
Tel: +39 055 210916
Website: http://www.illatini.com/?lang=en
TripAdvisor Reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d1088252-Reviews-Da_il_Latini-Florence_Tuscany.html#REVIEWS

Il Latini is another restaurant that we’ve visited on each of our recent trips to Florence. The key to enjoying this place is to view it as a fun, albeit somewhat touristy, “food experience.”

Reservations are recommended. However, this place is pretty big and it seems that even if you don’t book in advance, most patrons are accommodated in a reasonable amount of time.

The “experience” begins when you see the big crowd milling about the entrance to the restaurant. Even arriving with reservations, you’ll need to navigate your way to the front in order to provide your name and the number of people in your party. Although the scene may initially seem quite chaotic, the staff does a pretty efficient job of getting their guests checked in and seated.

Unless you’re part of a group of four people or more, you should expect to be seated at a large communal table with other guests. The meal is served “family style” and the interesting conversations you strike up with your fellow international patrons contributes to the festive atmosphere in the restaurant.

There’s really not a formal “menu” at Il Latini. Rather, the waiter comes out and starts talking through some options of what’s available in terms of appetizers, pasta and a main course. Your server will question you in a friendly and informal way about your food likes and dislikes and come up with some suggestions for your table. That said, vegetarians may be out of luck as the selections tend to be a bit “meat heavy” …

The meal wraps up with some dessert options, biscotti and a round of liqueurs. Portions are extremely generous and you will definitely NOT leave hungry! We stuck with the house wine and the meal was priced in an “all-inclusive” fashion. The waiter kind of “eyeballed” our jug of wine to see how much we consumed. However, my sense was that at the end of the day we were each charged a fixed price of about 50+ Euros per person. Upon request, it should be possible to order from a traditional menu and upgrade your wine selections for an additional charge.

Ristorante Caffe Pitti

Address: Piazza Pitti, 9, Florence (across the street from the Palazzo Pitti)
Tel: +39 055 2399863
Website: http://www.caffepitti.it/index-en.php
TripAdvisor Reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d1518916-Reviews-Ristorante_Caffe_Pitti-Florence_Tuscany.html

We discovered the Caffe Pitti when were looking for a quick place to grab a bite to eat prior to a concert that we were attending just across the street at the Palazzo Pitti.

The restaurant’s food was well-prepared and high quality – a real surprise given that it’s located so close to a major tourist attraction.

However, what distinguished this venue is that it specializes in truffle dishes and even operates a store where the restaurant’s products may be purchased.

We didn’t have time to linger on this particular visit. However, you can be sure we’ll make it a point to work our way through the entire truffle menu the next time we’re in Florence!

Golden View Open Bar

Address: Via de Bardi, 64/58, 50125 Florence (within view of the Ponte Vecchio)
Tel: +39 055 214502
Website: http://www.goldenviewopenbar.com
TripAdvisor Reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d798550-Reviews-Golden_View_Open_Bar-Florence_Tuscany.html

The very un-Italian sounding name of this establishment actually perfectly describes the views that are the focal point the restaurant. The Golden View Open Bar is located in the shadow of the Ponte Vecchio with the famous bridge framed dramatically by the dining’s room large picture windows.

The restaurant’s interior is ultramodern and its stark white interior serves as a neutral backdrop for the views outside. Of course, I did feel a bit worried that my deliciously prepared spaghetti pomodoro might cause some serious “splatter damage” during our meal.

Adding to the ambiance are the jazz performances that are held nightly (except on Tuesdays and Thursdays) starting at 9:00 pm.

Grom

Address: Via del Campanile angolo via delle Oche – 50012 Florence
Tel: +39 055 216158
Website: http://www.grom.it/eng/
TripAdvisor Reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187895-d783320-Reviews-Grom-Florence_Tuscany.html

What’s a trip to Italy without gelato?

In order for us stay to true to our “gelato-a-day” program we were pleased that this branch of the high-end ice cream chain was located just down the street from the Hotel Brunelleschi which was our base of operations during our stay in Florence.

Although the gelato at Grom isn’t cheap, the variety of flavors and the quality of the ingredients justify the higher prices and waiting in the ever present long lines snaking out of the store.

Fortunately, you won’t have to go too long without a Grom fix as you continue your travels since the chain maintains branches in all of the major Italian cities as well as in New York, Malibu, Paris, Tokyo and Osaka.

Do you have a favorite dining spot in Florence? I’d love to hear about it!

Italy, Trip Reports

Music in the Air – Culture Al Fresco in Florence

May 25, 2014 Point A 1 Comment

Florence is an incredibly cultural city. Great works of art are around every corner and there literally is music in the air. Our visit to Florence last July coincided with the annual Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (Maggio Arts Festival).

Along with the festival’s official programming, numerous options for opportunistic music and dance performances abound. What makes things even better is that many of these events take place outdoors where you’re able to capitalize on the gorgeous Tuscan weather.

One venue that provides atmosphere fit for royalty is the courtyard of the Pitti Palace where we enjoyed a Verdi concert.

As the sun went down and the lights came on, even the swarms of gnats and the rumble of distant thunder couldn’t dampen our enthusiasm.

On another night we headed over to the Bargello Museum, a former medieval prison that during the day houses one of my favorite sculpture collections including works by Michelangelo, Donatello and Giambologna.

At night the museum’s courtyard was transformed into a stage for a ballet performance set to Vivaldi’s Four Seasons by the Florence Dance Company.

The great thing about Florence’s cultural life is that there are always opportunities for unexpected surprises. For example, we bought on impulse a couple of concert tickets for a performance at the Museo di Orsanmichele that featured a more contemporary music program. In addition to enjoying some beautiful nighttime views over the city …

… the Pietro Adragana Ensemble treated us to a pretty rocking accordion concert that included some great tango music, a medley of movie music tunes and a rendition of Figaro from Rossini’s Barber of Seville.

There’s no need to book in advance for many of these performances. Our approach is to just keep any eye out for any posters or flyers that might be of interest as we do our daily sightseeing. During the summer season many churches, museums or cultural attractions host evening music or dance performances. You can then either purchase your tickets on the spot or swing back later if you want to give it some thought.

Have you ever enjoyed a spur-of-the moment cultural performance on any of your travels?

Hotel Reviews, Italy, Trip Reports

Hotel Brunelleschi Florence Review – Tuscan Elegance Meets Old Hollywood Glam

May 4, 2014 Point A 4 Comments

After a wonderful stay on the Amalfi Coast last summer, we boarded the high-speed Frecciarossa train, which whisked us from Naples to Florence in just under three hours. For our lodging in this beautiful city, we returned to the Hotel Brunelleschi which combines Tuscan elegance, Old Hollywood Glam and a location just down the street from the Duomo. The hotel served as our base of operations on our last visit here two years ago and we were eager to return.

My Partner F and I tend to travel like Cher on tour. Given the amount of luggage we had with us, we thought it would be best to have a car pick us up at the train station. When booking our reservation on the hotel’s website, we arranged for a car transfer and were pleased to see the driver with a sign waiting for us at the end of the platform at Santa Maria Novella. After a short drive, we pulled into a narrow street and the courtyard of the Hotel Brunelleschi.

Source: Hotel Brunelleschi

The hotel incorporates the Pagliazza Tower which is the oldest building still standing in the center of Florence. Tour groups regularly stop in front of the hotel to make of note of this fact but keep a respectful distance. The Torre della Pagliazza, which in English means the Straw Tower, was used as a women’s prison during the Middle Ages. Its name derives from the straw used to stuff the prison mattresses. Interestingly, most of the women in the prison were not criminals but rather individuals who refused to marry the men their parents had arranged as future husbands.

Source: Hotel Brunelleschi

The Hotel Brunelleschi renovated its rooms and public spaces a couple of years ago. The feel is modern and lux with just the right amount of bling that gives it a bit of an Old Hollywood Glam feel. However, you still get a great sense of place as the design deftly incorporates the building’s historical architectural features. Exposed beams and brickwork complement the lobby’s rich clay and earth-toned terrazzo floors. The detail and craftsmanship of the furniture along with leather accents and artwork provide an appropriately Tuscan medieval feel.

For our stay we booked a Superior Executive Room which featured a comfortable queen sized bed.

The room also included two chairs, a small table, writing desk, flat screen television and a luggage rack / bench at the foot of the bed. Hardwood floors in a herringbone pattern and vintage moldings served as a softening counterpoint to the room’s contemporary furnishings.

Although the room wasn’t exceptionally large, I did find that it provided “just enough” space for two people to move around comfortably. In addition, high ceilings contributed to a general feeling of spaciousness.

The bathroom was generously sized and sported marble finishes, updated bath and shower as well as modern fixtures.

Although the room lacked dressers, the closet area provided several shelving areas for storage as well as a mini-fridge and safe. We had no problem finding space to stow our luggage and to put away our clothes for our four-night stay. A quirky, yet very practical, feature of the room was the little pictograms on the light switches that informed you exactly which lamps you were turning on and off.

The hotel provides free Wi-Fi. I found the signal strength and speed to be adequate in our room. However, there were a couple of nights when Internet service went offline but resumed by the following morning.

Rooms were promptly made up as soon as we left. In the evening, we enjoyed a turndown service which included a slippers laid out at our bedside along with candy and a small card with the following day’s weather forecast left on the nightstand.

Also included in our rate was an expansive morning buffet offering a variety of breads and pastries, cold cuts and fruit juice, milk, coffee and tea. Hot items such as eggs, potatoes, sausage and bacon were also offered.

Breakfast is served in the bright and airy Salone Liberty and in the Sala del Pozzo everyday from 7:00 to 10:30. Although the hotel was quite full during our stay, we never had a problem securing our preferred table every morning. The servers at breakfast were polite, cheery and attentive.

This service standard extended beyond breakfast and was displayed by each member of the hotel’s staff we encountered. We were regularly greeted with a friendly buongiorno every time we passed hotel personnel in the hallways or in the lobby area. In particular, the hotel’s concierge staff was very helpful in suggesting restaurants or things to. We were particularly impressed that one of the concierges, Sergio, remembered us from our previous visit two years ago.

The Hotel Brunelleschi is very centrally located. The Duomo is only a 3-minute walk away and other major attractions such as the Uffizi, Piazza dell Signoria and Ponte Vecchio are all within a 5-10 minute radius of the hotel. Most importantly, a branch of Grom, our favorite gelato place, is just around the corner.

We would definitely stay at the Hotel Brunelleschi again. The elements of location, service, style and comfort all come together at this establishment. What about you? Do you have a favorite place to stay whenever you’re in Florence?

Italy, Lounges, Trains, Trip Reports

Trenitalia Frecciarossa Executive Class Review – Microwave Pasta on the Italian High-Speed Express

April 6, 2014 Point A 8 Comments

I love the romance of train travel in Europe. There’s something magical about the concept of seeing the countryside glide by as you listen to the clickety-clack of the wheels on the rails. Hoping to catch a whiff of the nostalgia associated with rail days gone by, I booked my Partner F and I two tickets in Executive Class on Trenitalia’s Frecciarossa express train service between Naples and Florence.

However, in the 21^st Century the high-speed train networks knitting the Continent together result in a travel experience that’s more Star Wars than Orient Express. Although our journey was fast and comfortable, I wouldn’t necessarily put our experience in the “luxury” category. That said, we did get some fun “Facebook shots” out of the deal. Oh yeah, and there was that nice plate of microwave pasta …

Last summer we spent a relaxing week on the Amalfi Coast. After a wonderful stay at the Hotel Marincanto (see my review Hercule Poirot Should Have Slept Here for more details), we reluctantly bid Positano good-bye. Our driver Salvatore Jr. (see my earlier post on Driving Mr. Daisy for the highlights of the day we spent with him) dropped us off at Napoli Centrale where we were due to catch our train to Florence.

Our Executive Class ticket included access to the station’s FrecciaClub lounge. However, getting into the lounge required jumping through a few hoops. The club was located a level above the station’s main floor. I sent my Partner F upstairs to get the lay of the land. After ringing the doorbell several times, it seemed that “no one was home.” I then spotted an elevator entrance that required a key card or PIN code to use. I tried punching in the various Ticket Codes and other numbers on the printout of my reservation but to no avail. Finally, two business guys exited the elevator lobby so we just ducked inside. Of course, once inside I couldn’t figure out how to work the lift! Finally, a friendly station attendant informed me that I had to press and hold the elevator button to get it work. Things just got even more comical from there since the elevator cab literally crawled its way up to the second level. Now realistically, most people would have given up much earlier. However, I love a good business class lounge and … well dammit … I was going to get in! Was it worth it? Well, here’s what awaited us …

The room was bright and airy and featured some funky oversized modern furniture. An espresso machine, cookies and crackers as well as complimentary cold drinks were available.

After relaxing a bit, we decided to make our way out to the train since we didn’t want to risk any elevator snafus that might occur as we tried to exit the lounge which frankly left me feeling a bit … well, you fill in the blank …

Trenitalia, Italy’s national railway company, operates the premier ETR500 Frecciarossa (meaning Red Arrow in Italian) high-speed trains on its main Naples-Rome-Florence-Bologna-Milan-Turin route. The train can reach speeds of 300 kilometers per hour (186 miles per hour) and the journey between Naples and Florence only took 2 hours and 51 minutes.

The train features a restaurant car as well as free Wi-Fi. The Frecciarossa offers Standard Class (Second Class), Premium Class (Second Class but with leather seats and a “Welcome Drink”) and Business Class (First Class – like Premium Class but with a little more leg room). However, on this journey we decided to splurge and traveled in Executive Class. What do you get for the extra money? Well, for starters there is that “Welcome Drink” along with a few nibbles …

After we passed Rome, a hot meal was served …

Sigh, believe it or not even the folks at Lean Cuisine could probably teach these guys a lesson or two. Thankfully, Trenitalia was pretty generous with their prosecco pours.

A special feature of our car was a private conference room …

After I was done pretending to address the Board of PepsiCo, the cabin attendant promptly locked up the room … and later used it to take a nap. With nothing left to amuse ourselves, we settled into our seats which admittedly were very comfortable …

… and offered a ridiculous amount of leg room.

At this Point I asked F to leave the train car so that I could enjoy the exclusivity of the space all to myself.

All in all, our journey in Frecciarossa Executive Class was comfortable. The train staff was polite and the cabin clean, modern and quiet. That said, while Executive Class was a fun novelty, I don’t think I’d pay the premium to experience it again and would likely just opt for “regular” Business Class on my next trip. In fact, the quality of most European trains is so high that riding in Second Class isn’t second rate at all.

How about you? What has been your experience with European train travel?

Food, Italy, Trip Reports

Sea, Shrimp and Celebrities – Food with a View in Positano

March 17, 2014 Point A

There’s often an inverse relationship between food quality and the vistas that you take in as you’re tucking into your Caesar Salad. For example, I’ve had many a mediocre meal at the top of a tall building. However, in a place like Positano, where you’re constantly surrounded by beautiful scenery, I was pleased that the food did justice to its surroundings.

Our days in Positano started with breakfast on the outdoor terrace of our hotel (for more information on our stay at the Hotel Marincanto check out my earlier post – Hercule Poirot Should Have Slept Here):

Where even the cappuccino was pleased with the view:

Just a vertigo-inducing stairway descent away …

… located at the base of the cliffs below the Hotel Marincanto was the La Scogliera beach club.

Where we had a couple of seaside lunches …

… and ordered a fantastic caprese salad featuring some of the freshest and juiciest buffalo mozzarella I’ve ever tasted.

Another beachside café we tried was Pupetto Evittoria which was located an easy 15 minute walk away through the town center and on Positano’s other major beach, the Spiaggia del Fornillo.

Getting to Pupetto included a stroll along a scenic cliffside walkway, the Via Positanese D’America.

Where we enjoyed some simple but fresh pizzas on the restaurant’s breezy open terrace …

Along with some “sexy” Diet Cokes.

Also located along the Via Positanesi D’America is Lo Guarracino.

At this restaurant we enjoyed our dinner under a rustic vine covered canopy that gave you the feeling that you were sitting in a treehouse …

… in full view of the ocean with sailboats bobbing in the distance.

On the menu for dinner was spaghetti alla puttanesca …

…. shrimp scampi

and a main course of Baked Fish (Al Forno) with Potatoes and Grilled Fish.

The following night we went from the seashore to the hills above Positano for dinner at Il Ritrivo. Given its sky-high location far from the town center, the restaurant provides a complimentary van pickup and return from your hotel.

We had a great table looking down over Positano to the sea.

… and enjoyed prosciutto with ripe cantaloupe …

… and grilled fish.

However, the highlight of the meal had to be the Salt & Pepper Shrimp.

Of course, I would have been fine if I stopped at the lemon cake for dessert.

But I just couldn’t resist the complimentary sampling of the restaurant’s various homemade dessert liqueurs. Needless to say, I slept very well that night!

We wrapped up our stay in Positano with dinner back on the beach at Chez Black which not only offered up more seaside dining …

… but also a celebrity sighting …

If you squint, you can make out that this is a photo of Samuel L. Jackson and the back of Magic Johnson‘s head. Sigh, I guess I have quite a bit of work I need to do on my paparazzi skills, don’t I?

How about you? What has been your experience with restaurants with a view?

Hawaii, Trip Reports

Aloha to Oahu – Review of Private Driver Services with Oahu Spot Tours

February 19, 2014 Point A 1 Comment

A rented car, a family filled with nervous drivers and the majesty of the Hawaiian Islands … Which of these three things do not belong? It was the first two of those items that led us to sign up with Ron at Oahu Spot Tours for our family’s trip to Hawaii this past May.

I booked the services of Ron’s company after reading the overwhelmingly positive reviews of Oahu Spot Tours on TripAdvisor. Ron was quick to respond to my emails and offered up some very helpful suggestions for structuring our trip. Since this was our first time in Hawaii, we opted for a full day private tour of Oahu.

Ron picked us up at our hotel (see my earlier review of the Embassy Suites Waikiki Beach Walk for more details on our accommodations) at 7:30 am to begin our excursion. Our mode of transportation for the day was Ron’s comfortable nine-passenger Mercedes-Benz minibus. In addition to a friendly smile, Ron greeted us with box of warm malasadas – Portuguese doughnuts which are a popular breakfast treat in Hawaii.

Our first stop of the day was a scenic overlook that gave us some wonderful panoramic views of Honolulu with Diamond Head off in the distance.

Ron then drove us around the Island to take in several other scenic spots.

For lunch, we made a stop at a traditional shrimp stand.

Despite the fact that we were purchasing seafood, off the back of a truck, on a warm Spring day, even my usually overly-cautious, food-squeamish Partner F enjoyed the delicious garlic shrimp scampi.

Right next door was a shop, run by a friend of Ron’s where we purchased a hand carved tiki statue …

… that we had personalized with our names.

Don’t worry, we made sure we bought an “un-cursed” one.

Over the course of the day, we also made stops at the Tropical Farms Macadamia Nut Farm (free samples galore!) and the Dole Plantation.

We then headed up to the North Shore of Oahu where we took in a little sea turtle viewing from a respectable distance …

…. before Ron drove us back to our hotel and bid our little group farewell with a nice gift of kukui nut leis.

In addition to our day-long tour of Oahu, Ron handled our transfers to and from the airport and drove us out to Pearl Harbor where we visited the USS Arizona Memorial and other naval exhibits.

Our Oahu itinerary included many of the same stops that are featured on the numerous “circle island” group tours. That said, Ron was great at keeping “one step ahead” of the big tour buses. The advantage of working with Oahu Spot Tours was that Ron was able to tailor the excursion to our preferences and allow us to enjoy the day at our own speed. However, what really made the day special was that during our 7+ hours on the road with him, Ron made us all feel like members of his extended family. Ron and his company Oahu Spot Tours truly embody the “Aloha Spirit” of Hawaii.

Have you ever visited Oahu? What were your impressions of the island?

Hotel Reviews, Italy, Trip Reports

Hotel Marincanto Positano Review – Hercule Poirot Should Have Slept Here

February 2, 2014 Point A

Agatha Christie does a great job of situating Hercule Poirot in some pretty luxurious locations. Whether its’s a carriage on the Orient Express, a Nile steamer or a secluded Black Sea resort, if you’re going to have a murder you might as well have someplace comfortable for the great French … sorry Belgian … detective to interrogate the suspects.

It’s that combination of 1920’s glamour in a spectacular setting that characterized our stay at the Hotel Marincanto in Positano this past July. Minus, of course, a dagger embellished body lying face down in the lobby.

Our driver Salvatore “Junior” (check out my earlier post on Driving Mr. Daisy for more details on our tour of the Amalfi Coast the day before) dropped us off at the hotel and we made our way from the street level entrance into a small glass-walled elevator that brought us down to the main reception area.

Our check-in experience began with a warm welcome from Enza who was manning the front desk that afternoon. Enza was bright, enthusiastic and promised that she would make our stay very special as we were there to celebrate a “Signature Birthday” for my Partner F. As we arrived, another guest was saying good-bye and declaring that this was her third time staying at the the hotel and that her stay was absolutely perfect … a very promising sign! Note: This was in contrast to our previous check-in at the Hilton Sorrento Palace (See my Staging Hotel post for more details.).

We arrived around noon and Enza informed us that our room would not be ready for about about an hour. We stored our bags and took the opportunity to start familiarizing ourself with our surroundings and decided to enjoy the sun on one of the hotel’s numerous outdoor terraces.

As soon as we walked outside the spectacular views confirmed that we picked the right hotel for our stay in Positano. We had to wait about 1.5 hours until our room was ready. However, we had arrived early and I can think of worse places to cool our heels.

We reserved a Junior Suite and were assigned Room 212. Shortly after settling in, Enza sent a small welcome gift to our room …

… which after consumption sparked the need for an afternoon nap.

It’s a good thing that our room was comfortable! Our Junior Suite included a small table and two chairs and an antique chest of drawers,which along with a hallway closet, provided ample storage space.

The room also featured two generously scaled arm chairs …

… a flat-screen television, DVD player and refrigerator.

Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. However, I found that signal strength and speed was a bit spotty (though still functional) in our room.

The bathroom was spacious and had a picture window that opened onto the room’s terrace. This ensuite doesn’t have a tub. However, the water pressure in the shower was strong and the towels and bathrobes passed the “generous, white and fluffy” test.

Although I found the facilities to be very clean, I do have to admit that the shower stall could have stood with a bit of “freshening up” … perhaps some new grout and a new shower head would do the trick.

The queen sized bed was comfortable. However, you should be forewarned that the bed is unusually short (e.g., my Partner F and I are far from being long-legged and we found that we each “just fit” lenghthwise on the mattress.).

Along with the rest of the hotel, the room featured vaulted, high ceilings, tile floors and bright white-washed walls that wonderfully framed the blue ocean visible from the Juliet balcony at the foot of the bed.

At night we would leave the window open and go to sleep listening to the sounds of the waves washing up on the shoreline below.

In addition to the Juliet balcony, we enjoyed the room’s small private terrace …

That included a table and two chairs …

Note: There’s a small walking path right below the terrace which somewhat reduces the privacy and seclusion of the room. However, there isn’t a lot of foot traffic on the path. In addition the view you get from the terrace greatly compensates for this minor issue …

… now there’s a vista that’s truly toast-worthy!

The terrace was also where I enjoyed my daily limoncello nightcap.

Of course, following an evening filled with wine, prosecco and limoncello, it was nice to know that a buffet breakfast was included in our room rate.

Along with my morning cappuccino, I was able to fill up on fruit and cereal …

… cheese and a wide variety of Italian cured meats …

… and pastries!

On a rainy day, we could have eaten indoors.

However, we were fortunate that the perfect July weather allowed up to enjoy our morning meal alfresco everyday on the Marincanto’s dining terrace.

The hotel’s other outdoor features include an infinity pool and private sun deck. However, we skipped those amenities on this trip and made the LONG TREK DOWNSTAIRS …

To the pebble beach at the base of the cliffs below the hotel. The facilities “downstairs” include a beach club which provided toilets and changing rooms, rented beach chairs and featured a restaurant …

Where we enjoyed some great oceanside lunches …

… and spent a couple of lazy days drinking Campari and sodas as we watched the yachts bobbing in the water.

We really enjoyed our stay and will likely make the Hotel Marincanto our “go to” choice for lodging on future trips to Positano. The Marincanto is conveniently located just down the street from some interesting shops and only a five minute walk to the center of town.

There are certainly more exclusive and famous options for hotels in Positano. However, the Hotel Marincanto offers distinct character, Mediterranean charm, spectacular views and upscale amenities at a price point that, while not inexpensive, puts it in the category of “attainable luxury.” More importantly, the Marincanto’s entire staff creates a warm and welcoming atmosphere for all of its guests.

That said, I was somewhat “disappointed” that our stay at the Hotel Marincanto was noticeably free from Agatha Christie-style drama.

I guess, we’ll just have to save the murder, intrigue and international espionage for our next visit …

How about you? Have you ever stayed at a hotel where your “room with a view” simply took your breath away?

Hawaii, Hilton, Hotel Reviews, Trip Reports

Embassy Suites Waikiki Beach Walk Hotel Review – A Hula Dancer in Every Room

November 10, 2013 Point A 1 Comment

Sometimes who you travel with will define your choice of a hotel. This past May our family traveled to Honolulu to celebrate my father’s 80^th birthday. Since this would be our first time in Hawaii, we all wanted to stay someplace that evoked a real “sense of place” and evoked a “tropical island vibe.” In addition, since my Dad is known for being well … uh cheap … we required a hotel that offered some good value for money for our six night stay. The Embassy Suites Waikiki Beach Walk fulfilled both of these criteria and made for a very pleasant stay for our family.

We arrived at the Embassy Suites around 8:00 pm and checked in at the registration desk, which was located in the hotel’s open-air lobby and driveway. Our room was ready and as we completed our check-in arrangements, the efficient and professional staff served our group some fresh, cold guava juice as we waited. The feeling of warm tropical breezes helped set the tone for our upcoming Hawaiian holiday.

This property is the only all-suite resort hotel in Oahu. Since we were going to be in Honolulu for six nights, having the extra space of a suite to “spread out” made our stay comfortable. Although hotel prices in Waikiki are generally not cheap, I found that the Embassy Suites offered excellent value for money. As I comparison-shopped for hotels, I found that for roughly the same rate as a standard room in other nearby mid-range / upscale hotels, I was able to book a suite with a full buffet breakfast included at the Embassy Suites.

The Embassy Suites Waikiki Beach Walk consists of two high-rise towers with an open air Grand Lanai on the fourth floor separating the buildings. The Grand Lanai is the location of the hotel’s pool, breakfast area, bar and meeting rooms. Our room in the Hula Tower overlooked the hotel’s pool area and consisted of a living room with a sofa bed …

… and a flat screen TV.

The Suite also included a small dining area that featured a mini-fridge and microwave.

This feature was really convenient since it provided us a place to store cold drinks and snacks over the course of our stay. We were able to stock up on provisions at the ABC Store located across the street from the hotel. This branch of the ubiquitous Hawaiian convenience & souvenir store chain (another one was located just down the street about a block away) also featured sandwiches, fresh refrigerated ready meals and hot takeaway options.

The bathroom was spacious and well kept.

The separate bedroom had a king-sized bed (rooms with two queen-sized beds are also available) …

… with another flat screen TV. The room also featured a dresser and armoire. It was great having the ample storage space for our clothes since a six-night vacation pretty much dictated the need for multiple costume changes over the course of our stay.

Although we were only located on the 7^th floor of the hotel, we did manage to get a peak at the ocean in between the buildings (the Trump Hotel Waikiki is right next door) which made for some great sunset views from the room’s balcony.

The balcony also featured a small table and two chairs so you could use it as a great vantage point for your morning coffee or a nightcap.

Am I looking “wistful enough” in this photo?

A full buffet breakfast (6:30 am to 10:00 am) is included in the price of the hotel. The buffet offered a wide variety of traditional morning options including fresh fruit, cereal and bread / bagels. Hot options such as French toast, bacon, sausage, potatoes and steamed rice were rotated regularly. In addition, a cooked-to-order egg / omelet station was also available.

The hotel also features a nightly Manager’s Reception (5:30 pm to 7:30 pm) with complimentary drinks and snacks on the Grand Lanai with Hawaiian entertainment on select evenings. Outdoor morning Yoga Classes are also offered on weekly basis. In addition, free Wi-Fi, a Business Center and a Fitness Center round out the amenities that are available.

The Embassy Suites Waikiki Beach Walk is very conveniently located. Although it’s not located right on the water, the beach is only about a 5 minute walk away and we were able to incorporate a morning oceanfront stroll into our daily ritual.

The adjacent Waikiki Beach Walk area features a wide variety of shops (including the two ABC Stores I mentioned earlier) and restaurants within easy walking distance. Just down the street is Kalakaua Avenue which is one of Waikiki’s main thoroughfares and home to most of Honolulu’s luxury hotels and designer flagship stores. Also not far away is the Royal Hawaiian where my Partner F and I had our evening nightcaps (see my earlier post Starwood Starpoints Starstruck – The Mai Tai Made Me Do It for more details) and where we attended our first luau (see my earlier post Royal Hawaiian Luau – Book It Danno! for more information).

Service at the hotel was consistently friendly and welcoming. In particular, the service staff at the breakfast buffet always were cheery and ready to assist. Their positive attitude really got our days off to a great start. I was also very impressed that when we were looking for the Business Center (which turned out to be located in the adjacent Aloha Tower), one of the office personnel stopped what she was doing in order to personally escort us to where we needed to go. That type of proactive action went above and beyond the call of duty.

My only complaint with the hotel is that I heard quite a bit of elevator noise (e.g. the mechanicals of the cab going up and down) in my bedroom. Although a minor annoyance, I didn’t find the sound distracting enough to merit a room change. That said, on any future visits I’ll be sure to request a room as far away as possible from the elevator to avoid this problem. While I’m at it, I’d probably also request for a room much higher up in order to improve my (partial) views of the ocean. In addition, the quality of the wine, drinks and snacks (consisting of primarily of potato chips and pretzels) could also stand to be upgraded. However, free booze is free booze so I guess I can’t complain TOO much!

Although the Embassy Suites is part of the international Hilton chain, the hotel didn’t feel cookie cutter. Hilton made a real effort to infuse local Hawaiian flavor into the décor and atmosphere of the hotel. Each night, little cards that recounted bits of Hawaiian history (e.g., the origins of the Luau, Surfboards, Lei-Making, etc.) were left in our room. Hawaiian-themed artwork and furnishings decorated the rooms and public areas.

Of course, what really made our visit complete was the private hula dancer we had in our room …

Hey, what’s wrong with a little John Waters style kitsch from time to time?

How about you? Do you like a little “local flavor” infused into the style and atmosphere of your hotel?

Italy, Trip Reports

Amalfi Coast Private Tour – Driving Mr. Daisy

November 3, 2013 Point A 8 Comments

The Amalfi Coast is known for it’s spectacular scenery. When we made plans to visit this region of Italy over the summer I had visions of us tooling around in an Alfa Romeo convertible, sporting dark glasses and taking each hairpin turn with my hands up in the air yelling at the top of my lungs “I’ve never felt so alive!”

Of course, once I snapped out of this daydream, I realized that the reality of a drive up the Amalfi Coast would be quite different. You see, I haven’t driven a car for ten years (yes, I am a creature of my urban environment). Therefore, chauffeuring responsibilities would have had to fall to my Partner F who himself is a bit of a nervous driver.

Instead of a glamorous Grace Kelly / Cary Grant cliffside, coastal jaunt á la To Catch A Thief …

Our journey would most likely end up resembling a white-knuckle ride with Woody Allen driving in … well, any movie in which Woody Allen has to get behind the wheel of a car …

Therefore, I decided to hire a private driver for our tour of the Amalfi Coast. I did quite a bit of research and decided on Simply Amalfi tours. I was impressed by the company’s excellent recommendations on TripAdvisor. In addition, I was able to use Simply Amalfi for our car transfers during our stay in addition to a full day tour of the Amalfi Coast.

I was impressed by the responsiveness and thoroughness of the company’s American co-owner Katharine Johnson. Our interaction began with a series of email exchanges to outline our options. Katharine was great in providing some very detailed sample itineraries that could be customized to our personal interests. She was extremely helpful and patient throughout the entire planning process and responded to my email inquiries very quickly. I ended up hiring Simply Amalfi for the following elements of our trip:

Private Car Transfer from Naples Airport to Sorrento (See my earlier post on our stay at the Hilton Sorrento Palace for my review of the hotel)
Day Long Private Car Tour of the Amalfi Coast
Private Car Transfer from Sorrento to Positano
Private Car Transfer from Positano to Naples Train Station

After landing in Naples (see my earlier post on Flying Lufthansa Intra-Europe for more details on our flight to Italy), Salvatore “Junior,” the nephew of Katharine and Simply Amalfi’s other co-owner Salvatore Mocerino, was waiting for us at the airport. Salvatore helped us with our luggage and we boarded a comfortable and spacious mini-van for our private car transfer to Sorrento. I had indicated in my earlier communication to Katharine that I was very interested in seeing some “great views” on our trip. Therefore, it was nice that Salvatore picked up on this and volunteered to stop off for a couple of “photo ops” on the way to our hotel.

Our Private Amalfi Coast Driver – Salvatore “Junior”

Our First View of Sorrento

The next morning, Salvatore was right on time to pick us up for our private car tour of the Amalfi Coast. Our first stop was a pretty overlook where we were able to catch some great views of the island of Capri …

… and the Bay of Naples and Vesuvius.

We were feeling a bit peckish so we stopped under a few olive trees for a snack.

We were a bit early in the olive picking season so we came up empty-handed.

The drive continued and we were treated to some spectacular coastal views. Salvatore was great at pointing out the key sights along the way such as a rock formation that looked like the head of the Italian general and politician Giuseppe Garibaldi and the private island that once belonged to ballet great Rudolph Nureyev. After passing a sign spray-painted onto to the cliffs that encouragingly said that “You Will Never Walk Alone” we soon came up on Positano.

Since we struck out on a snack during our “olive stop” we were treated to our first taste of a lemon granita. This treat featured real bits of lemon and was so sweet and cold and refreshing on the very hot day that we were touring. Of course, while we were there, we managed to make a new friend at a roadside fruit stand …

Since Salvatore was friends with the owner of the stand, we were able to get this great shot despite the large and clearly labeled sign that said “NO PHOTOs!”

While here, we were treated to some great views of Positano …

… Both coming …

… and going.

The beauty of Positano was simply surreal and this preview made me feel really happy that we’d be making the town our base of operations for the rest of our stay on the Amalfi Coast. Stay tuned for more details in a future blog post!

After leaving Positano, we passed a grotto that featured a model of the town in miniature …

… and a quick view of the site of the Emerald Grotto.

We continued on to the town of Amalfi where Salvatore helped us get our bearings and pointed out the Cathedral of San Andrea situated in the town center …

… and brought us to a local restaurant, La Taverna di Masaniello, for lunch. The restaurant is highly rated by TripAdvisor and we treated ourselves to a great meal of pasta with olives (alla puttanesca) and eggplant (alla siciliana). We then had some free time in Amalfi to explore the town on our own and get in a bit of shopping as well as a stop for some gelato!

We reconnected with Salvatore at our designated meeting point in the town square …

And bid farewell to Amalfi as we continued our drive.

Although, we enjoyed our stop in Amalfi, it was a pleasure to get back out on the road to enjoy the countryside. Salvatore drove us through the scenic Valley of the Dragon up to a secluded hill town called Scala.

What was distinctive about this stop was the noticeable LACK of tourists. We had had this scenic overlook all to ourselves … except for a solitary municipal worker who was on his smoke break as we took in the views.

The last stop on our private tour was Ravello which is known as the “City of Music.”

The town is quiet and elegant and I could see spending a few days here on a future trip in order attend its famous Summer Music Festival. Some of the concerts take place at this beautiful venue overlooking the ocean on the grounds of the Villa Rufulo …

The magnificence of the setting got my creative juices flowing and inspired me to take the stage …

Don’t worry, I won’t be quitting my day job any time soon!

What’s great about hiring a private driver is that throughout the day we were on “our time.” Salvatore made sure to communicate that we could personalize our experience to our own preferences. We had the freedom to stop and linger whenever and wherever we wanted. Having Salvatore with us was like having a good friend take us out for the day.

Throughout our trip, Salvatore was enthusiastic and professional. Even after the “formal” part of tour was completed, Salvatore remained engaged and personable. For example, once we ran out of “touristy” subjects to cover, we launched into a great discussion of Italian pop music (e.g., Did you know that there is a famous Italian cover version of Crowded House’s song Don’t Dream It’s Over?). Even stuck in rush hour traffic on the way back to Sorrento the time seemed to fly by.

On our last day, Salvatore was also our driver for our private car transfer from Positano to the Naples train station. Professional to the very end, Salvatore helped us with our luggage and guided us to the train platform.

I was extremely pleased by the service we received from Simply Amalfi. Working with this company took the worry out of the travel logistics involved in touring the Amalfi Coast. I wouldn’t hesitate to call on Simply Amalfi to manage my transportation needs on any future trips to the Amalfi Coast. For example, I could see using the company to organize a trip revolving around the Ravello Music Festival or perhaps for a day outing to go swimming at the Emerald Grotto. In addition, Katharine would also be able to organize transportation and a private guide for an outing that would include a visit to the Pompeii archeological site followed by a tour of the local wine country. In order to make the most of your experience, my advice would be to opt for a full day tour (or perhaps a series of full day tours). It’s best not to try to cram too much into a few hours since being too “rushed” will likely detract from your experience.

Hiring a private driver wasn’t too much of a stretch for me. Back home, when F isn’t driving me around, I’m hailing a cab or ordering an Uber or one of its variations. Yes, in many ways I’m the Jessica Tandy character in the film Driving Miss Daisy. That said, the biggest benefit of having a private driver on the Amalfi Coast is that it allowed us to enjoy the spectacular scenery without having to worry about driving our rental car off a cliff. Isn’t NOT careening off a steep precipice worth the extra money?

What about you? On vacation have you ever hired a private tour guide or driver for your trip? What was your experience?

Attainable Luxury Travel for the Working Professional … Getting there is half the fun! Day Job during the -uhh Day- and Travel Blogging at Night. It's all about the journey …

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Attainable Luxury Travel for the Working Professional … Getting there is half the fun! Day Job during the -uhh Day- and Travel Blogging at Night. It's all about the journey …